8/31/06 ~ Night Views of Hong Kong

On the Rio: Eric Clapton & Duane Allman ~ Jam, 8/27/1970, Criteria Studios, Miami, FL

The hotel offered complimentary shuttle service into Kowloon, so we rode that. We were dropped off at the waterfront, near the Avenue of Stars, which I showed pictures of from my last trip.

We took the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbor. These vessels cross the harbor 450 times a day, and the one we rode on was 50 years old. It was a bargain for only a quarter.

I had wanted to go to Victoria's peak, and as we walked to the tram line entrance, we walked through the Financial district, and came across these "bulls".

There actually about 30 of these bulls throughout the area, from various countries.

We got to the tram entrance, and the line was incredibly long...worse than rides at Disneyworld or Great America. Since my friend had already been up to Victoria's Peak, we decided to skip the wait and I would try the next day after she left Hong Kong.

Our dinner reservations at Jimmy's Kitchen weren't until 8pm, but we headed over anyway (it was only 6pm) to see if we could get in early. It was fun just wandering the streets and alleys, through parks and skyscrapers to find our destination.

Jimmy's Kitchen was a hoot! It is an English pub that has been around about 70 years. The drink menu made us both laugh, and I felt I was at a 1970s cocktail party: Harvey Wallbangers, Sloe Gin Fizzes, Pink Ladies. But we stuck to the English ales. The dinner menu had fish & chips, bangers (sausage) & mash, chicken a la king, beef strogenoff, steaks, chops, etc. We saved room for dessert, but not the traditional English bread pudding. Instead, I opted for a brandy alexander and PR had a grasshopper. But they were made with milk instead of ice cream...although tasty, a little disappointing.

By the time we left the restaurant, it was dark and all city was a glow. Here is the China Bank building by day and then by night.

It is supposed to represent bamboo. Here is a picture of the Harbor, and the Star Ferry we rode on is on the right.

Here's a picture that turned out kind of trippy.

I was dog tired by time I got back to the hotel. Quick shower and bottle of water, and I was asleep in 5 minutes. It was the best sleep I had in a long time. What a great day!

8/30/06 ~ Yuen Yuen Institue

On the Rio: Ray Charles ~ Makin' Whoopie

After the museum we saw a sign for a temple that wasn't in our guidebooks, so we went for a walk through Tak Wah Park to this temple, but I do not know it's name. It was a very popular local spot, with people making fruit offerings and burning incense sticks, and several attendants folding gold sheets into lotus flowers.

We then took a taxi to the Yuen Yuen Institute.

This institute is a religious one-stop shop, catering to worshipers of Buddhism, Confucianism, and Taoism. There appear to be dormitories and a cafeteria for the monks and nuns. We saw a group of nuns doing a circle walk and we saw some monks studying.

This is the pagoda I mentioned yesterday I could see from my hotel.

There are numerous pavilions and several ponds amongst the peaceful grounds to enjoy.

One pavilion had statues representing each year of the chinese zodiac. I was born in the year of the dragon. Here is the statue representing my year.

We spent a lot of time strolling through the various statue gardens. I will leave you today with several images from that afternoon (although I took about 50 photos, these are my favorite). I hope you find the statues as intersting as I did.

8/29/06 ~ Sam Tung Uk Village Museum

On the Rio: Bruce Springsteen ~ Glory Days

The first stop in Hong Kong was the Sam Tung Uk Village Museum. It was only a 15 minute walk from the Panda Hotel.

This museum is a preserved walled village of Hakka settlers of the Chan clan which displays early life in the New Territories. Hakka settlers were from mainland China who arrived in Hong Kong in the late 1600s. The village consists of 3 rows of connected houses and annexes. They created lofts for extra storage space. There were lots of period pieces of furniture to show the rooms for cooking, sleeping, eating, and celebrations. Here is an example of typical "door guards".

Additionally, information was provided to explain rice planting and harvesting procedures. Here I am wearing a traditional hat.

This is a rice steamer, mostly used for making rice wine.

They even provided examples of some of the food along with recipes. This is my favorite...

Don't they look appetizing? I'll be sure not to order any!

The villagers were moved by the government as part of the areas "development" prior to the village becoming a museum.

Oh, the Glory Days.

8/28/06 ~ Back from Hong Kong

On the Rio: Steely Dan ~ Peg

I am back from great trip to Hong Kong. I stayed at the Panda Hotel in the New Territories area in the north, at the end of the red Metro Line, in Tsuen Wan. Here is the hotel:



The "staff" was quite friendly.

And here is the view from the Club Lounge. The little tower behind the tall buildings is a pagoda at the Yuen Yuen Temple I went to, but there will be lots of pictures of that later.

And here is a fruit I've been eating here, but I do not know the name of it.

I have so many things to share, but the numerous mosquito bites are driving me crazy (when will I learn to always have bug stuff along?), so I'm signing off now.

8/25/06 ~ Restaurants & Jazz

On the Rio: Traffic ~ Pearly Queen

Last night I went out with 3 co-workers from Louisville and one from Yum China to the restaurant Laris. It is quite trendy, on the Bund, with a spectacular view of the water and skyline, including the Pearl Tower. We had tuna sushi with rice and wasabi, crab salad, and goat cheese as appetizers; a nice bottle of French wine; and my entree was slow roast lamb with scallions, tempura mushrooms, and couscous with mint yogurt, and for dessert a nice glass of port. What a wonderful meal.

Today is my co-worker Helen's last day. Our entire team (20 total) went out for traditional Shanghai lunch. I don't know what we all ate, but it was delicious.

Rice isn't usually served with meals at a restaurant, one must ask for it. Also, there are no Chinese fortune cookies served in China.

Leaving work tonight across the street at one of the other malls was a jazz band playing outside under a tent. I stopped to listen for a while. The weather tonight cooled off a bit and there was a breeze.

Check back next week for updates on my trip to Hong Kong.

8/24/06 ~ Softdrink?

On the Rio: John Lee Hooker ~ Mr. Lucky

My hotel recently began providing food and beverage vouchers every day worth 100RMB (or $12.50), and for me, usually 1-2 coupons will allow me a free dinner in one of the hotel restaurants.

I was in the hotel Sunflower Cafe the other night, watching World Basketball, having beer and pizza. There was a table of German businessmen near me, having several beers. When it came time to pay, they only had the soft drink beverage vouchers with them. So one of the business guys complains: "But beer is a soft drink. Hard drinks are whiskey and gin."

German logic I can relate to.

A couple times I have been asked if I want ice with my beverage. I have always said no, because it is not advisable to drink the water, hence, no ice. I eventually caught on when a waitstaff asked me if I wanted ice with my beer. I was a little confused, but naturally said no. It finally dawned on me when she brought me a warm beer that when asked if you want a beverage "with ice" they really mean cold. I returned the warm beer and asked for one "with ice".

The weather is still quite hot here. And they are forecasting rain for Hong Kong this weekend - oh, no. My colleague has to go to Thailand for work next week, so she decided to fly with me to Hong Kong and spend Saturday there at the same hotel. That will be fun! I will be there through Monday. I'm ready for a mini-vacation and a day off work.

8/20/06 ~ FIBA

The Rio is quite. It is half-time of the International Basketball game of USA vs. China being played in Japan. Shaq was in Shanghai this weekend promoting his new shoe with a Chinese sports company.

It's been a mellow weekend. Lots of phone conversations and (quite funny) messages. I've been working on my puzzle of kites. Here is my progress to date:


















I finished the "Babes in Beijing" book and started the Goldie Hawn book. Even with all the time on my hands, I find myself reading less than usual.

I took a stroll around my neighborhood today. Here is a picture of the Shanghai Lao Zhan, or Old Train Station, from the 1920s, which is now a restaurant. I walk by this every day to work.

Across the street from my hotel is the site of Shanghai's oldest Western settlement - a Jesuit center started by a Chinese Catholic, Paul Xu, in the early 17th century. This Catholic cathedral, St Ignatius, was built in 1910.

And here is a typical statue in front of the shopping mall, next to the Dairy Queen, which although I've been tempted, have not stopped at yet for a blizzard.

I hope this week goes quick at work, for Saturday I am headed back to Hong Kong.

8/19/06 ~ One of Those Weeks

On the Rio: Talking Heads ~ Heaven

It's been one of those week, where I just felt like saying:

But of course, did not. I usually keep a smile on my face.

I learned my first Chinese swear word this week.

I don't know if anyone saw on msn.com they were promoting msn blog pages, and one was entitled "An American in Shanghai". So I checked it out. He's 35, married to a Chinese lady, expecting their first baby, works in IT, lists his hometown as Milwaukee (is Shanghai big enough for two cheese heads?). So I emailed him, and I might have dinner with him and his wife next week.

A colleague from Louisville will also be in Shanghai next week.

Well, I'm off to the office to offer moral support and supply snack-food to my team-mates this Saturday afternoon.

8/16/06 ~ You Know...

On the Rio: Bob Seger ~ Night Moves

You know that you've been in China too long when:

• You cross the road without looking, it's safer
• You have to think how to use a knife and fork
• A June 2001 Great Wall Cabernet is your vintage of choice
• You only drink beer from one litre bottles
• The China Daily is your source for hard hitting, fast breaking, investigative journalism
• You find yourself "getting back to nature" in a park that contains nothing but concrete and a giant revolutionary statue
• Open spaces make you nervous
• You think a 30 year old woman who carries a Hello Kitty lunch box is cute
• You believe you are really tall when you are only 5'8"
• You finally decide to eat at Pizza Hut to put some solids into your body
• It becomes exciting to see if you can get on the elevator before anyone can get off
• You ask people in what animal year they were born
• You have a pinky fingernail an inch long

On Sunday I went with my colleague to Yu Garden Bazaar. It is the Chinese version of the Grand Covered Bazaar in Istanbul. Oh, so crowded. But actually the locals shop here and some of the back alley shops have very good deals on items, so I will return.

We had a pre-set lunch menu - crab and pork dumplings, cream buns and crispy cakes with various fillings, tea, fruit.

After lunch her driver took us to the Fabric Market. Right as we arrived the car involved in a minor fender bender with a taxi -- so we were shuffled out of the car while the drivers dealt with the situation. (Poor Audi.)

I hadn't been keen on going to the fabric market, but now I'm glad we did. I will probably return to have some clothes made. The silk and cashmeres are beautiful.

I had a great dinner Monday night in a Shanghaiese restuarant: crispy fried squid (although a little on the greasy side, as is most Shanghai food), sweet and sour ribs, and spicy eggplant with garlic (the eggplants were sliced and stuffed with bean curd).

Well, back to work!

8/12/06 ~ Xintiandi

On the Rio: The Beatles ~ Blackbird

Advance warning. Today's blog posting is quite long and detailed. I just had a great day and wanted to share.

Last night I decided to experience more of "China" in Shanghai. So for dinner I order stir-fried shrimp Hangzhou style, which means they are in cooked in cornstarch, rice vinegar, sesame oil, soy sauce and ginger, with a few scallions. They were delicious. Hangzhou is a city about 3 hours south of Shanghai by train, and I'm considering going there next weekend.

And for breakfast today I totally went out of my element and had the Steamed Bun with Lotus Paste and Egg Yolk, the Cream Bun with Red Bean Paste, and the Pork Dumpling. These were really tasty too.

I'm getting much better with my chopsticks. In fact, when I went to a Turkish restaurant on Monday, I had a hard time using a knife and fork. And no, it wasn't because of the 2 glasses of Raki I drank.

Today I went to the Xintiandi district [pronounced ‘shin-tien-dee’] of Shanghai. I was recently told this was the topic of a HD TV show. Translated this means “New Heaven on Earth”, but I would have to disagree. My idea of heaven on earth was Coco Plum Caye in Belize, where I went in May. Xintiandi is a relatively up-and-coming urban hotstop with lots of restaurants and shops built within a very historic district. Most shops/restaurants are reconstructed stone-gated land houses originally built in the 1920s and 1930s. Between the buildings run tiny nontangs (alleys) that connect with large open-air plazas suitable for European-style alfresco dining and drinking. Here is the entrance to one of the plaza areas.

One of the stone-gated houses here is now the Museum of the First National Congress of the Communist Party.

On 23 July 1921 the Chinese Communist Party was formed here by Mao, 12 other delegates and 2 Comintern representatives in reaction against foreign domination.

Mao must be turning in his grave that the backyard to this home is now a Starbucks, Haagen-Dazs and Vidal Sassoon salon. I did enjoy the museum. There were a lot of photographs and memorabilia from the 1920s. Lots of Marxist-Leninist doctrine. I don't know how much anyone reading this knows of the British and Japanese impact on China during that period, but it was staggering. Foreign domination and intervention never succeeds. I wish the current U.S. administration would actually pay attention to history.

The museum brought back lots of memories for me of traveling through the Soviet Union (hard to believe that was 20 years ago).

I'm not quite clear on how the current communist/capitalist fusion within China is supposed to play out. I'm also interested in seeing what impact the 2 newly formed Unions at China Wal-Mart will have. [But I read recently when I was in Hong Kong that Wal-Mart was pulling out of China, apparently due to poor sales, for the same reason it is pulling out of Germany).

The husband of one of my co-workers is a Leader of the Communist Youth Party. She was quite surprised I understood what this was, as usually when she tells someone from the U.S. his job they stare at her blankly.

I bought a small plate with the original Chinese Communist Manifesto on it for $1.25. Entry to the museum cost 40 cents.

My next destination was the Wanghang Bird and Flower Market.

And I finally found some birds!! They even had black-masked love birds, just like my Zorro!! They are so cute. There were also other love-birds, green with red faces and red beaks, (this was my first sighting of a red-beaked bird) and yellow with peach faces. In one large cage, there were almost 25 lovebirds, all the same species. I've never seen that many together. They are all very young. Some did not appear to be in good health, especially the larger parrots, and of course I had the urge to buy them all. I just stood and smiled at the birds for a good 10 minutes. They appeared appreciative of the attention.

The market in general is quite large with several entrances and alleyways. Puppies and kittens are also for sale, and lots of fish. I saw a large clown loach fish, like two of the fish we have in our aquarium (named Bozo and Bingo), but ours are a much brighter orange, probably healthier.

This is a very local neighborhood market, no tourists, with regular stuff to buy for a normal price. I bought some bamboo coasters. I will probably return to buy other souvenirs like tea cups and fans and a nice set of chopsticks (and to see the birds again).

I then walked to the Shanghai Museum. Six stone lions and a pair of mythical beasts guard the entrance. This one is a lion from the Northern Wei Dynasty, AD 386 -534.

These 2 mythical beasts are from the Han Dynasty, 206 BC - AD 220. The first is Tianlu, a supernatural beast. The second is Pixie, the Exorcisor of Evil Spirits.

Items in the museum span from the Neolithic age to the present day and collections include sculptures, furniture, calligraphy, coins, ceramics, jade-ware, and minority ethnic handicrafts (which were quite similar to the items I saw in the Kazakhstan History Museum).

Here are a couple pictures from inside the museum. To my surprise, they allow photography, even flash, in all the display rooms but one or two.

I spent over 2 hours here, but I will have to return. There is just too much to see. This museum is included in the recent book 1000 Places to See Before You Die. I would agree. It’s amazing.

8/11/06 ~ Typhoon Saomai & General Update

On the Rio: Joan Baez~ Colours

I had a request from a faithful reader to include a link to the song I'm referencing so you can listen to it while reading my blog. Unfortunately, it's not as simple as posting a photo, so I need to research this further.

The Typhoon Saomai hit as a category 5, the worst to hit mainland China in 50 years. The death toll is rising. They predicated a flood watch for Shanghai, but so far only blue skies. I've been told that the blue skies are an anomaly for Shanghai, but the numerous typhoons have been pushing the pollution out of the area, so we get to see the blue sky.

Children here call the game we know as "Leap Frog" as "Bending Like a Camel".

The government encourages later marriages (after 25 years old) by having companies provide 10 days leave from work when married after 25 (one only gets 3 days if marrying younger than 25). I have to explain that either way this is a benefit we don't get in the U.S. and we must use vacation days when getting married. Also, the company will provide a monetary bonus when married.

Here is a picture of some Chinese money (which all have a picture of Mao, except the 1 yuan note) and then a picture of some Hong Kong money (which has pictures of animals). In both cases, a 100 bill is equal to approximately $12.50 US dollars.

Apparently I did not scare off my American travel partner from last weekend. She stopped by my office today to see if I wanted to go out for Chinese dumplings and to a tea garden on Sunday.

8/10/06 ~ Quote of the Week

On the Rio: Koko Taylor ~ Yes, It's Good For You

I bought a Time magazine today, something I usually don't read, but I came across a quote I actually agree with. In an article on Iraq, U.S. Colonel Hammes described the current basic and undeniable problem regarding the U.S. strategy there: "Talking about a new strategy is useless until we get a new team -- in the Pentagon, in the Administration. These guys have screwed up everything. They haven't got the credibility to implement anything."

Enough of politics, let's move on to global corporate domination. Here is a picture of the beverages in my mini bar. Without reading any Chinese, I bet everyone can identify the logos.

And today's front page news story was that the Chuansha Town in Shanghai is being relocated to make room for, oh no, just what the world needs, Shanghai Disneyland. It is scheduled to open in 2010 when Shanghai hosts the World Expo. I didn't even know those happened anymore. Where and when was the last World Expo and what is the purpose? I'll need to google this...

Typhoon Saomai is expected to hit China mainland today. Current wind speeds were 135 mph. The area of landfall is half-way between Shanghai and Hong Kong, so about a 90 minute airplane ride south of me. It was quite windy walking home from work today, but the weather forecast here just calls for thunderstorms through the weekend.

8/8/06 ~ Dancing Bears

On the Rio: Grateful Dead ~ Black Throated Wind, 6/23/1974, Jai-Alai Fronton, Miami, FL

Actually, these are United Buddy Bears that I saw in Hong Kong. Jackie Chan is a big fan and has organized several children's fund raising events around them. They originated in Berlin as a concept by Eva and Klaus Herlitz. They are fiberglass bears over six feet tall which are painted by artists from nations all over the world. They are the symbol of global peace, tolerance, and friendship.

I read this week that Freddy Fender has incurable cancer. For those of you unfamiliar with Freddy, he hit the charts with the song 'Wasted Days and Wasted Nights' (among others, but that's the only one I like).

So here is a bit of information most of you probably don't know about me...Freddy Fender opened for Dolly Parton in Alpine Valley in 1976 and this was the very first concert I ever attended. I just finished 6th grade. My family was about to embark on a car trip to Colorado and prior to leaving Wisconsin my parents insisted we had to go to this concert. I remember two things really about this concert: whining about having to go, but then really enjoying laying on the grass looking up at the stars listening to the music.

And now I have so many fond memories of Alpine Valley laying on the grass, looking up at the stars, listening to music. So here's to my parents and Freddy Fender.

8/6/06 ~ Suzhou

On the Rio: The Doors ~ People Are Strange.

There couldn't be a more appropriate song. I thought I would get used to the constant and blatent staring, but I find it harder and harder. Staring is not considered rude in this culture, but having grown up being told it is impolite to stare, I'm having a hard time with it.

Enough of my whining. I had a great day actually. I went with the other Yum American expat here to the city of Suzhou. The trip by car (her driver took us in an Audi A6L) is about 90 minutes from Shanghai. Suzhou is described as Yesterday’s “Venice of the East” (so dubbed by no other than Marco Polo).

It is known for its beautiful planted private gardens and silk industry. We went to what was listed on the map as a silk museum, but it turned out to be a private silk factory. It was interesting to see the silk worms at work, and the women stretching the silk. I would have liked to see the dying/coloring process.

We went to two gardens: Garden for Lingering and Garden of the Master of Nets. Both were quite reclusive spots, and for the first time I actually felt like I experienced something truly Chinese.

Garden for Lingering (Liuyuan) has an impressive collection of bonsai (penjing) and a wilderness area.

There is also an 18 foot (6.5 meter) Crown of Clouds Peak, a chunk of carved rock from nearby Taihu Lake.

Women dressed in full Ming Dynasty regalia played instruments and sang. [I actually was able to take 2 short – about a minute each – videos of this, and the singing/playing is beautiful.]

I took over 100 pictures today, so of course I can only post the highlights. I’ll bore all of you with more photos when I’m home!

Garden of the Master of Nets (Wangshiyuan) is tiny and charming, and tucked away down an alleyway. The arrangement of pavilions, halls, music rooms, and waterside perches promotes natural harmony.

We also went to the Northern Pagoda, where we were greeted by this rather large buddha.

The North Temple Pagoda is a brick and wooden Buddhist pagoda and has nine stories with eight sides each. With the height of 76 meters, it is the highest of the pagodas in Suzhou. It is famous for double eaves and flying corners. So far it has a history of more than 1,700 years. We were able to climb up 5 floors of wooden stairs in the internal corridors to have a panorama of the city as well as look at hills, waters, and rural scenery of Suzhou in the distance.

My travel partner didn’t seem too keen on trying a local restaurant, but it turned out fine and we finally found a local spot with an English menu. I was interested in finding the Yuanwailou Restaurant which, according to the website, serves “fragrance-sending hemp leaves”, but I don’t know her well enough to have insisted. (But probably next trip!)

Looking for a local restaurant we passed 4 KFC’s, 2 McDonalds, a Pizza Hut, a Starbucks and a Haagen Daas. We joked it was impossible to find a Chinese restaurant in China.

We settled on a Hunan Restaurant. Hunan province is in the south of China, and the region Chairman Mao was born and educated, and is known to be home to some of China’s spiciest foods. We ordered fried corn (not deep fried, more of tempura coating, very light, and it was spicy with ground red pepper, but a little on the salty side), and fried brown rice with pork and scallions. We also ordered a chicken and mushroom dish, but the waitress came back, and through the use of the dictionary, we discerned that it would be too spicy for my travel partner's taste buds, so we switched our order to chicken in a hot pot. Well, this chicken had excellent flavor, but I can’t guarantee what parts of the chicken are used. We refused to eat the chicken feet. I have been told, however, that China is now importing chicken feet from the US because of the high demand.

This day trip has definitely peaked my interest to travel more weekends outside of Shanghai. There are two places I really still need to visit in the city, so I'll plan that for next weekend. I think my next trip I'll take the overnight train to Beijing and at least see that and the Forbidden City. The Great Wall will take a longer trip.

There's so much to do and see!